Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.
The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.
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